Once again there is a touch of the exotic to the honeysuckle, mango, lychee and intensely petrol-suffused aromas. There is reasonably good density to the utterly delicious flavors that are a lovely combination of minerality and verve while offering much better complexity on the balanced finish. To be clear, this is definitely not a classic rendition of the vineyard but it's still quite good.

The 2016 Chablis Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, which comes mainly from L’Homme Mort, is aged 60% in oak and 40% in stainless steel. It has a comparatively rich bouquet with scents of orange blossom and peach skin complementing the citrus peel notes, although, personally, I would have preferred more mineralité here. The palate shows fine tension from the start, quite concentrated but with satisfying energy towards the finish that offers just a hint of stem ginger. There is plenty of energy here and it probably deserves a couple of years in bottle. -- Neal Martin

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes is one of the more expressive wines in what's a youthfully reticent range, exhibiting pretty aromas of white peaches and flowers. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, glossy and textural, with a broad attack, succulent acids and a tense, stony finish. Understated but nicely balanced, it's a persuasive Fourchaumes. -WK