The 2016 Aluvional Gualtallary is a textbook example of the wild character of the place in a cold vintage. This comes from the subzone close to the monastery, a higher-altitude place (1,350 to 1,450 meters) with the influence of the Jaboncillo slopes and the caliche (a kind of limestone) in the soils. 2016 is a great example of how to tame the wilderness of the place, which, in the cooler year, means contained ripeness and superb texture. 2016 has to be the finest vintage for Gualtallary. 10,300 bottles were filled in February 2017. - LG

Pure in its fruity, herbal expression, this comes from a selection of chalk-rich vineyards in Gualtallary. After a year of ageing in concrete tanks and old barrels, the wine feels refreshing and vivacious, with granular tannins and a herbal finish that invites continued drinking.

Bright, saturated ruby. Strong stony/chalky lift to the aromas of dark berries, graphite and bitter chocolate. Densely packed, dry and backward, with chalky energy enlivening the rather wild black fruit and herb flavors. Finishes with restrained sweetness, a sneaky whiplash of licorice pastille flavor, and explosive palate-saturating length. (Incidentally, these three 2016 Aluvional bottlings will not be in the marketplace until the end of this year.) This is ultimately the densest of the Aluvional wines and will also need some time in bottle. (from vines planted on chalky soil with very good sun exposure at an altitude of 1,360 meters, but the fruit is picked early as the vineyard is farther from the mountains than the cooler, wetter San Pablo vineyard, which is harvested at the end) -- Stephen Tanzer

Big and rich, featuring concentrated raspberry, dark plum and dark currant flavors, supported by firm acidity and beefy tannins. Offers a minerally finish, with hints of licorice and chocolate nibs. Drink now through 2026. – KM