Very harmonious, with well-expressed flavors of lychee, violet, clementine and cardamom allied to a glossy texture and crunchy acidity. Very pretty and somewhat approachable now, but those who are patient will be rewarded as this comes together in the next several years. Best from 2020 through 2030. — A.Z.

(92-93) The 2016 Ried Steinertal Riesling Smaragd offers a fresh and concentrated white peach fruit aroma in a coolish and stony milieu with discreet citrus flavors. From weathered gneiss and granite soils, this is a full-bodied and concentrated Riesling with searing acidity but also remarkable concentration that gives this wine a very long and aromatic finish. It is lean, straight and mineral, really piquant, and reveals a salty, well structured finish. Very promising! -Stephan Reinhardt