The perfumed perfection of the bouquet and the wonders of the palate, with its ever-shifting mosaic of white stone fruit, rock melon, grapefruit, Granny Smith apple and custard apple reign supreme. Oak? Yes, it's there, although subtle. Acidity? Yes, the giver of life now and into the future.

2016 was an outstanding year, with an early, fine summer with daily sea breezes. Slightly above-average January and February temperatures were offset by a welcome 90mm of January rain. Markedly floral, there's a white blossom character to both nose and back-palate. It's a concentrated wine with gently granular fresh and dried pear notes, accompanied by silkier white peach. Succulent, ripe lemony acidity is well integrated and gently sheathed by nougat-inflected creamy lees. Lovely lithe mouthfeel and beautiful harmony.

The 2016 Art Series Chardonnay is showing its oak at this stage, but the fruit behind it is as powerful and overflowing as it must be in order to dovetail with its élevage in 100% new French oak. On the nose, you get flowers and leaves; it has a wonderful "bush" aroma of eucalypt, spring flowers, pink grapefruit, white pepper, bay leaf and even a hint coriander. The wine is velvety and sapid, with layers upon layers of flavor bound by invisible threads of salty acidity. It's savory; there's graphite, there's minerality, there's white spice; and to accompany it, there are lashings of ripe orchard fruit. It's a superb wine. I remember seeing this last year and thinking, "Now is about the right time to start drinking these wines" (i.e., seven years on from harvest), and I'd endorse that window again today. Sealed under screw cap. - Erin Larkin

Refined and elegant, this white is supple, yet intense and precise, with lemon curd, apricot, honeycomb and mandarin orange flavors, accented by floral and mineral details. The secret weapon here is the sleek acidity, which weaves in and out, giving the flavors definition and verve. Drink now through 2034. 800 cases imported. — MW

Pale yellow-gold. Mineral-accented white peach, orange, pear, saffron and white flowers on the intensely perfumed nose. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering concentrated orchard and pit fruit, chamomile and buttered toast flavors complemented by suggestions of tarragon and candied lemon peel. Shows excellent depth and precision, finishing minerally and impressively long, with lingering citrus and pit fruit notes. -- Josh Raynolds

This vintage of Leeuwin's most famous wine boasts the textural prowess and tightrope walk of approachability and ageability that put it on the map, but it's currently showing quite a lot of grainy oak and firmly pressed fruit, particularly as it warms in glass. A mélange of concentrated melon and pineapple fruit swirls with butterscotch toast and slightly nutty, salty seashell aromas and flavors. Nevertheless, the Leeuwin signature is still there and this should continue to age until 2030. - CHRISTINA PICKARD