Great mineral freshess on the nose for a dry white that’s 8 years old! In spite of the enormous smoky depth and the exceptional concentration for this vintage, the wine is filigree and subtle right through the very lingering finish. Still plenty of aging potential. Drink or hold. At the Keller G-Max vertical tasting. - Stuart Pigott

96+ The 2016 Riesling G-Max is very pure, fresh and chalky on the nose but also concentrated and ripe. On the palate, this is a very concentrated, intense, juicy, pure, mineral, tannic and well-structured Riesling with a lot of grip, tension and salt. Just one gram of residual sugar here, so don't expect a charming Riesling classic. This G-Max has truly fine tannins but nonetheless a lot of grip and tension. Still terribly young but full of character, purity and tension. This is incredibly structured Riesling and a final score is hard to give, although it won't get worse with age. - Stephan Reinhardt

Lime, fennel and sea breeze on the nose set the stage for an equally pungent display of zesty citrus, bittersweet herbal concentrate and mouthwatering salinity on an expansive, faintly oily palate. Stony undertow and glowing citrus seed piquancy extend a long, mouthwateringly salt-tinged, intensely vibrant finish of sappy concentration, even if not one boasting the transparency, multiplicity or sheer refreshment of this year’s Abtserde. At the risk of sounding churlish, and while recognizing my great good fortune in being able to taste the annual editions of Keller’s always impressive G-Max, I can’t help suspecting that the long-standing cult status and the mystique of this Riesling from a never-to-be-mentioned site are what cause German wine critics to consistently rate it as the top wine in any given Keller collection. -- David Schildknecht