The 2017 Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Berardenga Rancia Riserva is a distinguished Sangiovese from the renowned Chianti Classico region in Tuscany, specifically the Castelnuovo Berardenga subzone. With an alcohol content of 13.0% and closed with a traditional cork, this red wine showcases the craftsmanship of the Fattoria di Felsina winery.
This vintage faced significant challenges due to a hot and dry growing season, prompting early harvest and meticulous vineyard management. As Giovanni Poggiali from Felsina noted, efforts were made to reduce water stress and ensure optimal ripening by qualitative thinning (Decanter). Despite these hurdles, the wine has emerged as a robust and well-structured offering.
James Suckling awarded the wine an impressive 95 points, praising its "plenty of fruit concentration with cherry and strawberry aromas and flavors. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and lots of concentration. Intense and rich." He suggests that the wine will benefit from a couple of years of aging, recommending it be enjoyed after 2021.
Vinous, also awarding 95 points, describes the 2017 Riserva Rancia as "incredibly polished and sophisticated." Antonio Galloni highlights its "silky tannins" and "racy, sleek personality," noting its medium body and restrained nature despite the vintage's intensity. Galloni is particularly eager to observe its development over time.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate offers a slightly more tempered review with 94 points, yet still acknowledges it as a standout. The review commends the wine for its "radiance, linearity and energy" and rich bouquet featuring "red fruit, wild berry, toasted almond, violet, and potting soil." However, they found the mouthfeel a bit shorter compared to past vintages.
Decanter and Wine Spectator both rated the wine at 93 points. Decanter describes it as "brooding" with "plum and tar on a backdrop of vanilla and exotic spice," while Wine Spectator highlights its "cherry, plum, juniper, earth, and chocolate flavors" and notes its solid structure which will require time to fully unravel.
In conclusion, the 2017 Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Berardenga Rancia Riserva is a commendable Sangiovese, characterized by its robust structure, intense fruit concentration, and promising aging potential. The wine has garnered high praise from esteemed reviewers, making it a noteworthy choice for any connoisseur.