This is at once racy and understated — somehow fresh, somehow ripe, somehow mineral. Reticent but profound, it suggests freshly fallen snow, sliced yuzu against porcelain plate, freshly picked loquat and perfectly candied citrus. The sweetness sits at the back of your palate with force, delaying its attack, before sweeping inwards and threatening to outflank the acidity at every curve of the mouth; ultimately, neither side prevails, but every pixel of every component tessellates into place like a magnificent mosaic of rainbow colors. Drink now, but better decades ahead.

The 2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese (Gold Capsule), AP 17 18, is deep and flinty on the perfectly ripe, intense and tropical-scented nose with its ripe yellow nectarine and peach aromas. The wine exhibits very fine botrytis with crunchy-salty slate features on the palate and is racy-piquant, highly stimulating, crisp and crunchy on the finish, with lingering salinity. This 2017 Sonnenuhr is still very young and needs time to calm down but is still lush and fresh, and the bottle will be emptied before you have even thought about the wine. It's very long, complex and tensioned—just fabulous. Tasted in March 2019. - SR

Lush but not thick, dense and complex yet supple and light, this auslese shows concentrated creamed honey, citrus and sweet mint notes, all seamlessly flowing across the palate. A terrific sweet Riesling. Best from 2024 through 2047. 55 cases imported. — AZ

Initial whiffs are quite earthy but time and aeration brings out gorgeous lemon and white-blossom aromas here. The palate is deeply penetrating with layers of sweet white grapefruit, mango and pineapple accented by racy strikes of acidity and steel. A light footed but luscious wine, this is delicious now but will improve through 2035, and hold further. ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA