Loaded with personality, this full-bodied red has earthy aromas of camphor, fragrant blue flowers, tilled soil and spiced plum. Round and concentrated, the savory palate offers juicy black cherry, licorice and tobacco accompanied by smooth, close-knit tannins. Dink 2022–2029. KERIN O’KEEFE

The 2017 Barbaresco Montefico balances the structural framework typical of this site with the radiance of the year so well. Powerful and intensely mineral, the Montefico is a bit wild in its first approach, yet it has so much character. Bright red berry fruit, chalk, mint, sage and white pepper give the Montefico a brilliant upper register to play off its natural cut. I would plan on cellaring the 2017 for at least a few years. -- Antonio Galloni