Rocking crème de cassis, flowery incense, smoked tobacco, and a touch of chocolate all emerge from the 2017 M. Etain, which has the classic elegance of this cuvée paired with medium to full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannins, and just terrific overall balance. It picks up plenty of minerality on the finish, and while approachable today, it will drink well for 20 years or more. The blend is 84% Cab Sauvignon, 8% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot, and 3% Merlot, all from the estate in Rutherford, that spent 18 months in 70% new French oak.

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the 2017 M. Étain is deep garnet-purple colored and prances out of the glass with exuberant baked cherries, warm mulberries, plum pudding and crème de cassis notes with touches of Provence herbs, tilled soil and pencil lead plus wafts of spice box and potpourri. Full-bodied, firm and earthy in the mouth, the palate has bags of freshness and a firm structure with loads of spicy nuances on the finish. - LPB

Well-rendered, featuring a range of ripe yet sleek flavors of cassis, loganberry and boysenberry that won't quit, all while licorice snap and graphite details run underneath. Not shy, but has the energy to support all the elements. Will need a bit of cellaring to fully round into form. A big, gutsy Cabernet. Best from 2021 through 2032. — J.M.