The Crozes Hermitage vineyard is the largest of all the northern Rhone Valley Appellations. It extends over 11 communes situated in the Drome, on the left bank of the Rhone. The Domaine de Thalabert has belonged to the Maison Paul Jaboulet Aine since 1834. It is situated on the plain, and is the oldest in the Appellation.

This estate of around 40 ha is located on a pebbly plain that is glacial in origin. These small, round pebbles store heat during the day and release it at night, providing optimum maturity.

The wine is made of Syrah from vines aged 40 to 60 years. The grapes from the Thalabert estate are carefully sorted, meticulously vinified using traditional methods, and traditionally aged in wood for 12 months in the ancient “Vineum” cellar.

The wine has a deep ruby color, limpid and bright. It is intense, complex and aromatic with a blend of red berries and animal notes. On the palate are powerful, fine, and noble tannins. The finish is full and well-balanced.

Paul Jaboulet Aîné’s Crozes-Hermitage “Domaine de Thalabert” 2017 is a single-vineyard Syrah from one of the Northern Rhône’s historic addresses. Jaboulet has owned Domaine de Thalabert since 1834, and the site is often cited as the oldest vineyard holding in Crozes-Hermitage, with Syrah plantings dating from 1934 to 1975. The 2017 is also reported as coming from organic viticulture by this point, underscoring the estate’s shift toward more sustainable farming.

In the glass, reviewers consistently describe a dark-fruited, savory Northern Rhône profile with both richness and structure. Jeb Dunnuck delivers the strongest critical endorsement at 94 points—an excellent review—calling it a “wild, opulent, gamey style of wine” that “doesn’t disappoint,” with “chocolaty black fruits, ground pepper, truffle, and smoked game,” plus “a hint of black olives.” He adds that it’s “medium to full-bodied,” with a “rocking texture,” “ripe tannins,” and “a great finish,” concluding that it is “a classic example of this wine and terroir,” and suggesting a drinking window over “the coming 15 years or so.”

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (92 points) highlights the wine’s aromatic lift and poise, noting it is “marked by scents of licorice, plum and cassis,” and praising its “fine sense of balance” and “crisp finish,” with “slightly drying tannins” on the close.

Vinous (Josh Raynolds, 92 points) emphasizes perfume and plush fruit, describing an “inky ruby” wine with a “smoke-accented” nose and “plush boysenberry, cherry and singed plum flavors,” finishing “broad, sweet and long, with harmonious tannins.” James Suckling (92 points) similarly points to “chocolate, iron and dark berries,” citing “real richness,” “a plush feel,” and an “elongated tannin drive,” calling it “super sleek” and advising, “Try from 2024.”