This has lovely peach, sliced almond, hazelnut and pear aromas. Some orange curd and saffron, too. It’s fruity and fragrant but fresh on the palate, with a delicious hint of oranges and underlying chalky minerality. Persistent finish. Disgorged July 2024. Drink now or hold. Claire Nesbitt Deputy Tasting Editor

The 2017 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Spéciale Les Montjolys, from a vineyard in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, where higher percentages of clay and an deeper topsoil render rounder wines, was disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of four grams per liter. A year that was undeniably more favorable to Chardonnay than to red grapes, 2017 is defined by lower-than-average yields and delivered a concentration that Rodolphe Péters compares to 2019. Soaring from the glass with a bouquet of tangerine zest, red apple, spices and bread dough, it’s full-bodied and textural, capturing power without weight. Les Montjolys shares a similar signature with Les Chétillons; but they are certainly no twin brothers, as Les Montjolys is a slightly richer, more demonstrative and less electric wine. It’s a charming rendition that will offer a broad drinking window. It’s worth keeping Les Montjolys more easily accessible, as these bottles can be enjoyed in their full expression earlier than Les Chétillons of the same vintage.

The 2017 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Montjolys is a wild, exotic wine. Apricot, tangerine peel, gingerbread, dried flowers and strong tropical inflections give the 2017 its distinct personality. Soft contours lend notable immediacy. This is an especially open-knit vintage for Les Montjolys. It's a commendable effort for a year marked by late-season rain followed by heat, unfortunately ideal conditions for botrytis. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2024.- Antonio Galloni