The 2017 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port is a field blend of typical grapes (like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca) aged for 20 months in French wood. It comes in with 105 grams of residual sugar. When last seen, this was only a tank sample. A darker flavor profile than the regular Taylor's, more leaning to plums and blackberries, this shows all that great Taylor's fruit and welds it to a serious backbone. The regular Taylor's seems a bit brighter, while this seems a bit sterner and richer, but at this point in their very young lives, I am not sure there is a lot to choose from qualitatively. That may change, in favor of this, I think, as they go further into their very long lives. Today, there isn't much to separate them except style and price. I'd take this, both for the style and the upside potential, but the price spike is certainly worth noting for many, while the qualitative difference is nominal. - MS

This is a magnificent, opulent wine, with rich tannins and equally rich black fruits. While it has plenty of ripeness that gives it a generous character, it never wavers in its firm structure. It will have an immensely long, impressive life. Drink from 2030. ROGER VOSS

Aromas of dark berries, wet earth and dried flowers follow through to a full body, medium sweet and lots of intense and powerful tannins that are extremely fine-grained. Goes on for minutes. Polished and sophisticated young vintage Port. Lovely old vine Port. Try after 2027.

Zesty and wild in feel, with a broad range of steeped loganberry, plum, red currant, açaí berry and fig flavors all playing out atop mouthwatering bramble and anise notes. A strong woodsy spine cuts through and drives the finish, which picks up tar and chai spice accents before ending on the drier side. Distinctive. Best from 2035 through 2060. 40 cases imported. — JM

From the oldest vines on the estate, from five plots, with some vines planted over a century ago. It's not quite as deep in colour as most of the wines here. Still demure on the nose, it's not hanging together as yet, with underlying brambly fruit that's more delicate in style. There's lovely sweet cassis-like fruit on the palate backed by fine-grained tannins, beautifully defined. It's not especially big but is gloriously seductive, with a dusty, gravelly, tannic finish. Very fine.