(93-94 points) Beautiful grapefruit and lime pith with lemon and a burst of gunflint and mineral spark. The focus is extremely tight, which is amazing in 2018. There’s a big hold of fruit mid-palate, then a super pithy grapefruit and lime drive with hints of praline and chalk to close. Impressive purity here. Try from 2024.

Like the Montée de Tonnerre this is overtly floral in character on the lightly spiced nose that displays additional aromas of mineral reduction, iodine, lemon peel and pear. There is a really lovely sense of verve suffusing the powerful yet reasonably refined larger-scaled flavors that culminate in an almost chewy bone-dry finish thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract. This muscular effort isn't as refined as the Montée de Tonnerre but it's just as complex and persistent.

My favorite of the trio, the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is another beautiful wine that shows the generosity of this vintage with its open, seamless and medium-bodied style. Leading with plenty of white peach, white currants, flowers, white pepper, and flinty minerality, it has a wonderful sense of purity and precision as well as balance. As with the Vaillons, there’s a distinct salinity to this wine that shows slightly on the nose yet coats the palate on the finish. It has some upfront charm but will gain weight with 3-5 years of bottle age and keep for at least a decade. If drinking any time soon, it needs lots of air.

The nice old vines in the Dauvissats’ parcel of la Forest (they average fifty-five years of age, with a significant portion far older) have navigated the heat of August beautifully in 2018 and this is a marvelous wine in the making. The wine delivers a vibrant and very classy aromatic constellation of apple, pear, flint, a nice touch of beeswax, citrus peel and a topnote of anise. On the palate the wine is pure, full, ripe and minerally, with excellent cut and grip, impressive focus and a long, zesty and complex finish. There are very good acids here to support the fruit, and coupled with the strong vein of minerality, the overall impression is of a first class example of la Forest with a bit of almost grand cru weight to it this year. It will drink well sooner, but I would try to leave my hands off of it for the next five years and let its secondary layers unfold.

The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is also showing well, opening in the glass with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil, beeswax, honeycomb and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it's fleshy and enveloping, with a lovely spine of acidity and a long, saline finish. Like the Vaillons, this is quite demonstrative for a young Dauvissat Forest, and it will deliver considerable pleasure straight out of the gates.