With great yellow fruit, ranging from ripe peach to super ripe mango, this dry pinot gris manages to stay just the right side of opulence, thanks to its vibrant acidity, giving it almost riesling-like elegance, linearity and minerality at the driving finish, which is truly remarkable for this grape. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2018 Pinot Gris Rotenberg is bright and taut in the glass, with striking dimension and tons of complexity. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers and lightly honeyed notes offer a striking interplay of richness and freshness. More than anything else, the Rotenberg is marked by a feeling of structure and drive, with underlying veins of saline intensity that bring tension to the finish. -- Antonio Galloni

Restrained zestiness and a sense of russet-pear peel is all the shy nose gives away for now. The palate of this wine comes in with freshness supported by the liveliness of some residual carbon dioxide, and a richer, almost buttery notion of pear fruit. Vivacity has the upper hand, especially on the sprightly finish that tapers from the rounded fruit. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

Racy acidity and a pronounced vein of smoky minerality drive this powerful, chiseled white. It's medium- to full-bodied and mouthwatering, offering a lovely range of Mandarin orange, pineapple and crunchy pear fruit and a subtle thread of aromatic honeycomb, ground cardamom and chopped almond notes. Best from 2023 through 2033. – AN

The Wintzenheim 2018 Pinot Gris Rotenberg is clear and concentrated on the elegant and aromatic nose. Dense, tight and vital on the palate, this is a fresh and dry Pinot Gris with good structure and grip on the finish. This is an excellent Pinot to match many kinds of food. A very universal white wine with moderate alcohol and moderate residual sugar (5.6 grams per liter). Bottled in January 2020. 13.3% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in January 2023. - Stephan Reinhardt