The 2018 Ultreia Valtuille feels very young. Pérez explained that they used more new oak here because he thinks this is the most serious vintage of this wine ever and also his favorite. This is from a plot in Villegas on 100% sandy soils, and it's the twin plot to the Cepas Centenarias from Castro Ventosa, his family winery. As this was the first single-vineyard they produced, they called it simply Valtuille; but with the new classification, this should be called Villegas. This is serious and designed for the long run, subtle and elegant, with the profile of a grand cru, some baby fat and a touch of oak but with juicy tannins, gobsmacking balance and great length. Drink the 2018 La Vizcaína La Vitoriana while you wait for this. 2018 was a low-yielding year in this plot, and they got some 3,000 bottles from almost two hectares that have been organically farmed for some six years now. The first vintage was 2005, which was also bottled as Matador Raúl Pérez. This might change names in the future, as it might be confused with one of the new Vino de Villa. - LG

Glistening ruby. Expansive aromas of black raspberry and cherry cola are complemented by pungent floral flourishes, incense and exotic spices. Seamless and energetic on the palate, offering juicy, spice-tinged red and dark berry preserve, violet pastille and mocha flavors. Becomes sweeter and deeper on the strikingly long, seamless finish, which features polished tannins and resonating spice and floral qualities. -- Josh Raynolds