Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025.

Savoury, crunchy, cranberry and raspberry fruit, nuanced, fragrant, balanced and joyful and extremely easy to share and enjoy - fascinating also to taste alongside the 2006 Testamatta and see the evolution in confidence and expression, simpy allowing the fruit and the sense of place to shine. You can feel the love and meticulous winemaking that goes into Testamatta - at this point, 20 years on from the first vintage, gathering fruit from some of the oldest plots in Chianti, up to 80 years old. Natural yeasts, manual punch downs, 10 days maceration maximum and barrel ageing with no new oak.

Yet another fine year, however some wines in 2019 - although not Testamatta - lacked a little concentration. Relatively light in colour, it's at the other end of the density scale to the wines of the early 2000s. There are piquant raspberry and redcurrant aromas and both the nose and palate show admirable delicacy and restraint. Very elegant and pure, its fine acidity gives excellent length and ageing potential.

The Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a little closed and shy. This is one of the first vintages in which Bibi did not do green harvest, a practice he has since avoided because he believes the vines find ideal balance when left alone. In fact, yields in 2017 were lower because of the heat, but they rebounded in 2019, with 20% more production. This wine has red fruits, currants and dusty mineral sensation to close. - Monica Larner

Delicate aromas of red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. Bright and elegantly structured, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice framed in polished tannins. Drink through 2029. KERIN O’KEEFE