From Fevre's tiny plot on the steepest part of Bougros, Côte de Bouguerots adds even more complexity and drive to a stunning site. There is such finesse here, allied with density on the palate, savoury characters and perfectly balanced acidity. A very mineral expression of Grand Cru Chablis. Difficult to talk about fruit flavours here as the mineral/savoury elements are the star of the show. A great Grand Cru with a very long future ahead. (Drink between 2023-2035)

(92-95 points) The Bougros vineyard is the most challenging from the viticultural point of view, Didier tells me. It requires a team of nine people for a total of 1800 man hours out there with their pickaxes. The results are excellent though. One of the palest colours. A discreet nose, but there is, some power of white fruit lurking behind. Dynamic tension on the palate, with excellent grip, a little spice, with a dancing deep concentration of white fruit. And properly Chablis.

(93+ points) Aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, clear honey, peach, mint and buttery pastry introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, ample and enveloping wine that's one of the more textural, dramatic wines in the range. Unusually deep and concentrated, its immediate, charming profile belies considerable aging potential this year.- WK