Gorgeous aromas of lemon rind, lemon cream, waxy dried apples and hints of cedar and vanilla. Full-bodied, with a round, lightly chewy palate and a long, intense finish. Fantastic fruit and complexity. Yet always sublime and subtle. From organically grown grapes. Delicious now, but will be even better in a year or two.

Closed with a thick yellow wax capsule, the Petrolo 2019 Bòggina B is a pure expression of Trebbiano, a grape that enjoys a long history in this part of Tuscany. The wine reveals a ripe, waxy bouquet with apricot, honey, saffron and toasted almond. There is a reductive element to the bouquet with crushed stone and flint (especially at this young stage of its life) that makes for a compelling contrast next to the open-knit and creamy density delivered to the palate. This is an unexpected and highly original Tuscan white wine with a quirky, creative personality that matches that of its maker, Luca Sanjust. I suggest another couple years of bottle age. - ML

A serious white with lemon zest, lemongrass and grapefruit aromas with hints of vanilla. This has excellent acidity but also a weight in the mouth, juicy but viscous with a lift at the end. A great food wine. Made from recently-planted organic Trebbiano grapes using the same clones that were used in original plantings in the 1970s. First produced in 2014 as a tribute to the renowned white wines from Valdarno in the past. Natural vinification with native yeasts in tonneaux, aging on the less for over 15 months in French oak tonneaux with regular batonnage during the first few months. Only one racking before bottling. Around a 5,000 bottle production.

A touch of vanilla and smoked oak notes add gloss to the attack. As it settles in the glass, you get white flowers, honeysuckle, rich citrus and bitter almond. First vintage 2014, although the vines were planted in the 1970s originally, recently replanted using the original clones. 3,300 bottles. Unracked until bottling. 2.5ha estate.