Made from 70-year-old vines, a small part of the blend was matured in old casks, the rest in vats. This is powerful, complex, but also refined and understated. Crisp, vibrant acidity, subtle wood notes and a long, lingering, mineral finish. A touch of the iron fist in a velvet glove.

(93-95 points) Here the wood influence is quite subtle and easily allows the spicy, elegant, pure and airy aromas of white orchard fruit, quinine and iodine to shine. Once again there is a lovely refinement and underlying tension to the more modestly scaled flavors that also brim with minerality on the compact, bone-dry and beautifully focused finale. This is the class of the range in 2020, even if only just.