Katarina’s 2020 Himmelreich Auslese is a simply stunning young wine. Aromatically, the wine is unbelievably precise and vibrant, soaring from the glass in a mix of pineapple, fresh lime, a touch of white cherry, bee pollen, wild yeasts, a crystalline base of slate minerality, a hint of honeycomb and a potpourri of citrus blossoms in the upper register. On the palate the wine is zesty, medium-full and filigreed, with lovely depth and complexity, a beautiful girdle of acidity, laser-like focus and a very, very long, impeccably balanced finish.

The 2020 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese is discreet and remarkably coolish on the dense and lemon-scented nose compared to Zeltingen and Bernkastel. White peach and nectarine aromas intertwined with coolish broken slate aromas make this a savory and irresistible Auslese, even though, or exactly because of it, this is so discreet and only subversively erotic on the nose. The palate then reveals stunning lightness and finesse based on a filigreed structure and highly refined and zesty acidity. This is almost weightless, but it has a sweet core that materializes the fruit, whereas in the transcendental Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, it's more of an idea. 7% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 19 21 in July 2022. - SR