Ink black core, relaxing only slightly to a deep purple rim. Plums, dark chocolate and vanilla pods on the nose. Deep, powerful and brooding on the palate. Dark fruits, black olives and woody spices all coil around each other, vying for attention, leaning heavily into the savoury spectrum. The tannins bring a further sense of power with a firmness that suits, while still retaining a fine powdery texture. A serious food wine.

This polished red shows some restraint to the ripe, dense, velvety core of blueberry, huckleberry and dark chocolate, with a note of malty Assam black tea. Fresh green dried herbal notes and a hint of black olive linger on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2035. — M.W.

The year 2020 wasn't Barossa's finest vintage, but Entity fares well. It's a rich well of supple plum and blackberry fruit, dark chocolate, mint and anise, underpinned by earthy spices like cumin and turmeric, in a vanillin-oak frame that's subtle but present. The palate shows similar richness but never feels overly heavy despite the overlay of velvety, plush fruit on the tongue. Polished, well-integrated tannins keep it grounded. This is a wine to warm the cockles in winter or to pair with grilled ribs or brisket in summer. Drink now through 2030. CHRISTINA PICKARD

(92+ points) I think it's really hard to go past John Duval for quintessential Barossa terroir, delivered in a medium to full-bodied frame, without the intensive overlay of oak. This 2020 Entity Shiraz is pure and vibrant but wrapped in a sheath of savory tannin. This is elegant and supple and balanced. The wine speaks of place. How good. - Erin Larkin