Roagna’s Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti 2020 is a small-production Nebbiolo from the Montefico cru in Barbaresco DOCG, sourced from an old-vine parcel the family acquired in 1929. The vineyard is just 0.24 hectares, with vines reported at over 50 years old, and production is tiny: Wine Spectator notes “102 cases made, 30 cases imported.” Roagna’s broader house style is traditionally minded, with long macerations and extended aging in neutral oak, a framework that tends to emphasize structure and site character over overt sweetness.
Critics agree the 2020 Montefico Vecchie Viti is built more on savory detail, tannin shape, and drive than immediate fruit generosity. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) gives an excellent 97 points, calling it “one of the most reticent wines in this range,” led by “strong savory and mineral notes” with “mint, sweet pipe tobacco and sage” up front. He highlights “driving yet fine-grained tannins” and a “delineated, saline-drenched finish,” concluding simply: “Superb.”
Wine Spectator also awards an excellent 97 points, emphasizing a different angle: “loads of ripe cherry and peppery spices,” “fine viscosity despite its light-weight profile,” and a finish that folds together “bright fruit, tar, mineral and savory underbrush elements.” It recommends patience—“Best from 2029 through 2047”—underscoring the wine’s long-distance profile.
Kerin O’Keefe scores it 96 points, describing “serious structure and intensity,” with notes of “new leather, underbrush, wild strawberry, star anise and tobacco,” finishing on “bitter orange and a savory hint of truffle,” supported by “firm tannins” and “tangy acidity.”
James Suckling likewise rates it 96, focusing on its poise: “Restrained and floral, with dried rose and orange zest,” and “firm, velvety tannins… crisp acidity and a umami finish.” Overall, it’s a high-performing Montefico with clear critical consensus and the concentration—and scarcity—to reward cellaring.