The 2021 Donnhoff Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs Trocken is a standout white wine from the Nahe region of Germany, specifically Roxheim's Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg appellation. Produced by Donnhoff, this Riesling, with its natural cork closure, presents a focused and complex profile that has garnered high praise from wine critics.
James Suckling awarded the wine an impressive 97 points, highlighting its unique aromatic profile and mineral intensity. Suckling describes the wine as having an aroma reminiscent of "red-fleshed vineyard peach" and notes the wine's "incredibly focused palate" which dives into "the mineral depths of a riesling Grand Canyon." He emphasizes the wine's youthful vibrancy, advising that it is best appreciated by those who enjoy acidity, and likens the experience to chasing a laser beam. Suckling also points out that the wine is produced from organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification, adding to its appeal for environmentally conscious consumers.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate also provided a stellar review, scoring the wine at 96 points. The review notes that the wine is sourced from a two-hectare parcel with vines over 50 years old, which contributes to its depth and complexity. The bouquet is described as "deep, quiet and subtle but very complex and generous," featuring ripe fruits and finely crushed stones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich, and intense, with a remarkable concentration and substance. The review praises the wine's powerful yet elegant structure, highlighting its "ripe tannins" and "long, refined and textural finish." The acidity is noted to be "saline and ripe," seamlessly integrated with the wine's body, fruit, and tannin.
With an alcohol content of 13%, the 2021 Donnhoff Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs Trocken is a refined and textured Riesling that offers both immediate appeal and potential for aging. Its high ratings from renowned critics underscore its quality and potential, making it a noteworthy choice for Riesling enthusiasts and collectors alike.