Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard’s Montrachet Grand Cru 2022 is the estate’s flagship white: a rare, parcel-based Chardonnay from the storied Le Montrachet vineyard on the Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet border. The family domaine, founded in 1985 by Laurence Gagnard and Richard Fontaine and now co-managed with their daughter Céline, farms about 12 hectares, mostly in Chassagne-Montrachet. Their viticulture is sustainable (lutte raisonnée), with practices such as plowing rather than relying on herbicides, aiming for clear site expression.
In bottle, the 2022 is already drawing excellent critical attention. Vinous’ Neal Martin rates it 97 points (published as “(95-97 points)”) and emphasizes both drive and detail: “There is real energy and complexity here, orange pith and lemon verbena, touches of lemon curd.” He notes the wine’s scale—“beautifully balanced with great depth and power”—and calls out its exceptional finish: “a beguiling length and precision,” concluding simply, “Divine.” Martin also provides a telling production detail: it is “the only cuvée in two one-year-old barrels,” adding, “I don’t think it needs new oak,” a sign that the fruit and structure are carrying the wine.
Burghound also delivers an excellent review at 96 points, highlighting a cooler-toned aromatic profile that “reluctantly reveals” layers of “Granny Smith apples, acacia blossom, fennel, Asian-style spice and a plethora of citrus elements.” On the palate, Burghound finds it “racy and super-sleek” yet “impressively powerful, focused, balanced and hugely long,” with “a touch of wood slowly” emerging on the finish.
Both reviewers converge on a Montrachet that combines power with precision and control, and Burghound underscores its trajectory: “built-to-age… improve for a decade plus.” For collectors seeking a high-end 2022 white Burgundy with strong early critical consensus, this is a top-tier reference point.