Poderi Aldo Conterno’s Barolo Colonnello 2022 is a single-vineyard Barolo DOCG from the Colonnello plot in the historic Bussia cru of Monforte d’Alba. Made from 100% Nebbiolo and labeled at 15% alcohol, it comes from an estate founded in 1969 and still closely associated with traditional Barolo methods, including spontaneous fermentations (no selected yeasts) and maturation in Slavonian oak.

Several sources frame Colonnello as the most aromatic and immediately charming of the estate’s three single-vineyard Bussia Barolos. Enoteca del Ponte calls it “the most alluring, fragrant, and gracefully supple” of the lineup, emphasizing both its perfume and its long-term prospects, citing “pristine cellaring longevity.” Decanter, in a producer profile, similarly positions Colonnello as “the most floral of the three,” and notes that its “style and weight” can come across “more like a La Morra,” a useful shorthand for readers expecting finesse alongside Bussia structure.

The wine’s site explanation underscores why this bottling can straddle power and lift. Enoteca del Ponte points to Bussia’s calcareous marl, plus “a significant vein of sand,” suggesting a profile that blends “power and structure” with “aromatic lift and silky, refined tannins.” That combination—firm Nebbiolo architecture with a more polished tannin feel—is central to Colonnello’s reputation.

The 2022 growing season in Piedmont was notably hot and dry, described by the Wine Scholar Guild as the region’s “driest” and among its hottest years, conditions that often bring earlier approachability. In that context, strong critical reports stand out: a retailer listing from Massanois cites an excellent 97-point score from James Suckling and 96 points from Wine Spectator (these scores are reported by the retailer and could not be directly verified here). Even so, they align with the wine’s established profile: fragrant, structured Barolo with an emphasis on finesse, and the capacity to reward cellaring.