(96-98 points) As always, I was able to taste the 2023 Hermitage from multiple parcels, and it's clear this will be another beautiful Hermitage. The Péléat, which comes from sandier soils, is always more finesse-oriented. The Beaume lieu-dit brings more complexity and spice, the L'Ermite more minerality and rose petal nuances, and the Bessards always brings the granitic, graphite, structured core that defines this cuvée. I love the overall purity, elegance, and finesse of the 2023, which is a slight throwback to ripe, yet very classic, mineral-driven examples of Chave's Hermitage. It will offer some early enjoyment given its ripe style, yet the minerality and structure all point to it having ample longevity.

A tasting of constituent barrels suggests this will be a particularly approachable and supple vintage of Chave's Hermitage – it is a vintage without great tannic mass or strong acidity, but has deliciously ripe Méal fruit. Very elegant, if fairly low in tannin compared to a typical year, this will drink well young, starting at around 2036 really, but will be approachable, if less rewarding, earlier than that. It will drink before the 2022, and probably not last as long. Undoubtedly a big step up from the 2021, but doesn't quite have the soaring majesty of the 2019 or the 2020.

The 2023 L'Hermitage is hauntingly floral at this early stage, with captivating aromatics of rose petal, crushed violet, sour cherry, red plum, cedar and a delicate hint of orange blossom. As usual, Chave showcased individual lieux-dits, with Les Beaumes standing out this year for its lively energy and laser-like precision. That said, the wine's core pillars, Les Bessards and L'Ermite, are marked by outstanding purity. While the 2023 eventually may not match the concentration or sheer impact of the 2022, it might reveal hidden surprises as it develops further. -- Nicolas Greinacher |