Roagna’s Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino 2023 is a tightly produced white from Montemarzino in Piedmont’s Colli Tortonesi area, made from 100% Timorasso. The Roagna family, better known for Barbaresco and Barolo, bought this Timorasso plot in 2014 and approaches it with the same traditional, low-intervention mindset that defines the estate. Farming is certified organic and biodynamic, and the winemaking is deliberately slow: the wine is fermented in large oak with indigenous yeasts and then aged for two years in the same large barrels. Alcohol is 13.5%. Production is small—240 cases made, with 30 cases imported—so availability will be limited.

The best reviews point to a wine that balances Timorasso’s inherent structure with an unusually refined shape. Vinous calls it “gorgeous,” noting that Luca Roagna “has crafted a Timorasso that marries the textural and structural presence typical of this variety with…finesse,” concluding, “The result is a Timorasso of uncommon elegance” (Antonio Galloni, Vinous), with “dried pear, chamomile, mint, spice and crushed flowers” and a “long, resonant finish.”

Kerin O’Keefe’s 94-point note is an excellent review and reinforces the wine’s composure and longevity. She highlights “aromas of lychee, yellow pear, Spanish broom and botanical herb,” and emphasizes the élevage details, writing that the palate shows “great class and elegant restraint,” with “ripe yellow pear, unsweetened lemon drop, graphite and hazelnut” and a salty close. “Fresh acidity keeps it energized and balanced,” she adds (Kerin O’Keefe, kerinokeefe.com).

Wine Spectator (91 points) lands in the same stylistic lane—“an elegant white” with “floral, lemon, apple and beeswax” plus “subtle shades of pine and sage,” finishing “fresh and precise…with a tangy, saline finish,” and suggests a long drinking window, “Drink now through 2040” (Wine Spectator). Overall, it reads as a serious, age-capable Timorasso built on texture, savory detail, and saline drive rather than overt fruitiness.