Marvelously savory and intensely saline, the structure and substance of this white really stand out, even in a crowded field. In the case of the Idda wines I think I might prefer their red, but wow is it a competition. Better to have both colors and sip them one after the other. — Danielle Callegari

The Idda 2024 Sicilia Bianco is very mineral and salty, especially when tasted next to the softer 2023 vintage before it. This vintage is about direction, focus and linearity. The mouthfeel is also leaner compared to 2023, but the current vintage is longer lasting. The 2024 growing season saw heat in summer, winds and steep diurnal shifts. A special fog called "acquazzina" locally offers some respite during the hottest months, and the vines benefit from cool winds that blow inland from the sea. The wine ferments in stainless steel, and 20% goes into 15-hectoliter oak casks. The winemaking team doesn't make much of a fuss when it comes to malolactic fermentation, and they bottle in May or June of the following year "to capture the energy of the grape," Alberto Graci tells me. - ML

Distinctly savory on the nose, the 2024 Bianco unfolds with nuances of stone dust, dried herbs, incense and Asian pear. It's soft-textured and round with ripe orchard fruits, spice and a gentle reverberation of salty minerality. This cleans up beautifully through the finish, leaving a subtle saline concentration and hints of tart citrus. - Eric Guido

A fresh, peppery style with a spicy, citrusy nose and core aromas of stone fruit. Medium-bodied. More focused on the rich palate than on the aromatic profile. Enjoyable texture and length. Drink now. Aldo Fiordelli Senior Editor