This is a study in chardonnay, the variety stripped of any flattering accoutrements and presented as a pure, dynamic wine. It earns its power from grand cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, and it includes reserve wines going back to 1985. Those elements combine in the kind of intense, gripping chardonnay you can find only in Champagne, its flavors hinting at kumquat and loquat, fruity chanterelles and crunchy apples, lasting long after each sip. The wine manages its intensity with grace, so it’s delicious now and well worth aging.

Freshly squeezed lemon, green apples, oyster shell and white apricots with subtle brioche and exquisite yeastiness. A fruity entry followed by a medium to full body where you find the fine perlage carrying the intense chalky flavors to a nicely dry but approachable finish. Lovely length with spot-on balance between chalky fruit and autolysis. Disgorged in March 2022. Drink or hold. - Zekun Shuai, Senior Editor

Coming from the base vintage of 2017 from Oger and Mesnil-sur-Oger, with 40% of each included in the blend, the NV Champagne Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs (with a compostable orange wrapper) pours a youthful yellow hue and opens to powdery and wispy floral aromas of lime candy, crushed chalk, white flowers, and fresh pear. Elegant, with a pillowy mouse, this medium-bodied Champagne is approachable and inviting, with a clean finish. It’s a very pretty wine and would be a lovely aperitif. The 2017 vintage was less challenging for Chardonnay and is in a good spot for drinking over the next 8-10 years. Dosage was 4. 5 grams per liter. Disgorged May 2022. - Audrey Frick

Disgorged in November 2022 with three grams per liter dosage, Bruno Paillard’s NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, revealing a delicate, perfumed bouquet with aromas of red berries, spring flowers, pepper and grapefruit, followed by a moderately weighted, incisive palate that’s vinous and taut with an intense core of fruit. Saline and chalky, the finish is ethereal and lingering. Based on the 2018 vintage, with 12.5% reserve wines, it’s crafted from Pinot Noir grapes sourced from four villages (Verzenay, Mailly, Verzy and Bouzy) and was vinified in 20% oak barrels. - Yohan Castaing

The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs is a very pretty, airy Champagne from Bruno Paillard. Light tropical notes, white flowers, crushed rocks, mint and tangerine peel are beautifully delineated. Airy and effusive, with tons of subtlety, the Blancs de Blancs is an absolute charmer. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: May 2022. -- Antonio Galloni

A fresh, focused Champagne, with a subtle, leesy overtone. Creamy and satiny in texture, offering notes of patisserie pear, marzipan and lemon curd. Lightly spiced and lingering on the finish. Disgorged May 2022. Drink now through 2028. – AN