Aromatic hints of pastry dough and chopped salted almond are set on a firm frame in this minerally Champagne, which shows a chalky underpinning and mouthwatering flavors of Asian pear, grated ginger and nectarine. Disgorged March 2018. Drink now through 2025. – AN

Informed by several plots scattered around Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Pascal Doquet’s latest NV Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Diapason is based on the perpetual blend from 2012 to 2016 and finished with 33% from the 2017 vintage. Matured in 10 to 15-year-old 228-liter barrels, which are bought new by Doquet and then reused, with the remaining 40% vinified in enameled steel, it’s open and charming, wafting from the glass with a bouquet of white flowers and pear, mingling with dried apricot and red plum. On the palate, it’s racy, with a pillowy mousse, excellent definition and a long, penetrating finish. - Kristaps Karklins