After 12 months in wood, the wine has a fine spicy edge. That balances the rich black fruits with their floral character. This is a ripe wine that has plenty of potential. Drink from 2026. ROGER VOSS

Dried oranges and plums with bark, mushroom and forest floor aromas that follow through to medium to full body with a dense finish and excellent energy. Spices such as nutmeg and sandalwood. Some chocolate, too. 57%...

The 2015 La Lagune has never really shown as well as it might. However, this bottle, poured blind, suggests that this has suddenly "awoken". It has a well-defined, estuarine-tinged bouquet with blackberry, wild hedgerow...

A more sauvage influence suffuses the nose of poached plum, spicy red currant and newly turned earth. The rich, delicious and caressing medium weight flavors flash evident minerality that continues onto the bitter pit...

(92-94 points) Even in this more charming vintage, the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is the most structured wine in the range, opening up to reveal notes of cherries, berries and peonies, followed by a medium to...