2019 Donnhoff Trocken Riesling
by JJ Buckley Fine Wines
JJB: $23.94 *
Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff is “the undisputed star” (Wine Advocate) of the Nahe, a tiny but vibrant region that consistently produces some of the finest dry Rieslings in the world. Their Estate Riesling Trocken comes from two vineyards that combine the area’s dominant terroirs: the volcanic soils of Oberhäusen, and of course the classic slate. This is arguably Dönhoff’s calling card, not to mention a “gorgeous wine and a picture-book Riesling from the 2019 vintage” (Wine Advocate). An elegant Trocken, it has bright citrus and orchard fruit, and a classically mineral-driven finish, making it an incredible food wine, both refreshing and complex. Given that Dönnhoff is routinely ranked among the top tier of Riesling producers, their Estate Trocken is an incredible buy at this price.
2019 was a rare vintage that was great for all styles of Riesling, and the dry examples “can compete with the finest wines from at least the last 20 years” according to the Wine Advocate. For Dönnhoff, it was “another excellent to great vintage” with a lineup of “classy long-distance runners.” Cornelius Dönnhoff took over from Helmut over ten years ago, and has upheld his fathers reputation as a “meticulous traditionalist” (Vinous). There are few if any producers in all of Germany that we could recommend above this benchmark. This is the perfect house Riesling for those who love the vivacious energy of a traditionally made Trocken, at a price that would knock even the most affordable Chablis out of the water!
91 points, Decanter: "From the steep slopes of the middle Nahe, this bright expression of dry Riesling comes from 15- to 30-year-old vines grown on slate soils. It's an elegant wine from start to finish, with expressive and forward aromas of citrus and nectarine, lovely minerality and lively acidity."
91 points, James Suckling: "A basket full of summer fruit with tropical nuances on top, making this an extremely attractive, dry estate riesling with a satisfying hint of tannin and lively acidity at the finish."
*Offer publication date September 8, 2021. Pricing and availability subject to change.