The 1981 Cheval Blanc has long been one of the over-achieving wines of a patchy vintage, though I had not seen a bottle for some time. This has a refined bouquet with black fruit, briary and light forest floor scents. The...
The 1981 Cheval Blanc has long been one of the over-achieving wines of a patchy vintage, though I had not seen a bottle for some time. This has a refined bouquet with black fruit, briary and light forest floor scents. The Merlot is more expressive than the Cabernets. The palate has a sweet entry, gentle at first so that you almost fail to notice the grip and structure behind this Cheval Blanc. This suggests that perhaps it has faded a little in recent years, forgivable given its age. Still, it remains a delicious, lighter-styled Saint-Émilion undeservedly overshadowed by the following vintage. Tasted at 67 Pall Mall at Chelsea Vintners' The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide dinner.
-- Neal Martin