This is so classic, with a beautiful nose of blackcurrants, bell pepper, lead pencil, herbs, blackcurrant leaf and tobacco. Elegant and very fine. Medium-bodied with silky tannins. Turns to sweet berry fruit after a while. This has real Bordeaux soul. Drink or hold.

The 90 Leoville Las Cases is what great Bordeaux is all about. The wine is full-bodied, rich, deep and intense. Power with elegance, refined and fresh the tannins are perfectly ripe, backing up all the equally perfectly ripe, dark red currants, cigar box, tobacco leaf, cedar, forest leaf and spice. The wine fills your palate and sticks with you in the finish. It took 32 years to get here and will offer fabulous drinking for at least the next two decades with ease.

As one might expect, this is a brilliant wine, but it remains shockingly young, even for the fast evolving 1990s. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a classic, nearly restrained set of aromatics that includes notions of sweet black cherries, black currants, lead pencil, and wet stones. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, and while technically low in acidity, there is a freshness, delineation, and classicism in this full-throttle, rich, concentrated, impeccable 1990. While still youthful, it is easy to appreciate despite its substantial tannins. It is not quite as backward as the 1990 Lafite Rothschild or 1990 Latour. Anticipated maturity: now-2035. Release price: ($500.00/case)- RP

The Chateau Leoville Las-Cases 1990 continues to be a monumental wine, one of the finest of that era. Tasted blind at a private dinner, it retains that misleading, Pauillac bouquet with great intensity, the secondary aromas swarming…rolled tobacco, undergrowth, graphite and Provencal herbs. The palate is beautifully balanced with melted, autumnal, tertiary fruit and great weight towards the persistent finish. It has a dimension and a breeding that puts the 1989 in the shade. Wonderful.

Tasting the 1990 Léoville Las Cases just a few days after the 1989, it is clear which is the best vintage…this one. It has a sublime nose of melted black fruit, tar, cedar and bay leaf that shrugs off the heat of that summer better than most others. At 33 years of age, you could just lose yourself in these aromatics. The palate is clearly holding up well: beautifully defined and supple yet with typical Las-Cases backbone and depth. It builds magnificently in the glass toward a harmonious finish that reminds me of the 1985 in terms of its fleshiness. Wonderful. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant. -- Neal Martin

A little less vibrant in colour than the 1982, this is closer to tawny than rose, with welcoming soot and hearth smoke on the nose, and on the first palate. The fruit is plum and loganberry, softened and atumnal, with dark spice - the Petit Verdot is making its presence felt in those early years, marking it out from the post 2005 years when this grape no longer appears. Elegant and precise, with fine tannins, softens on the finish, this is in its drinking window, revs up halfway through and again has the precise elegance that makes it so much St Julien once in its mature phase. Great, but not as good as the 1982. 50% new oak. Michel Delon owner.