Tasted at dinner at The Ledbury. The Champans ’90 has a gorgeous, ripe tarry bouquet with hints of wild mint and black olive compote that mellows with aeration to displays aromas of fresh fig, leather and a touch of Italian salami! The palate soft and full with a touch of soy interlacing the ripe black fruits, a hint of acetic acid just marring finish, but I appreciate the harmony and the finesse on the finish. For me, this has turned out to be a better wines than the Clos des Ducs ’90, though I would not leave it too much longer. Drink now-2015.

This is still very deeply colored with very little signs of age-related lightening at the rim. The very ripe and expressive nose displays only modest amounts of secondary fruit and no sous bois. The big-bodied and intense flavors are still markedly structured and somewhat rustic, all wrapped in an impressively long but not particularly refined or elegant finish. I have never been a big fan of the d'Angerville '90s because while they are notably dramatic, they display precious little Volnay character and are, to my mind, much more about the vintage than the terroir, which is very unusual for this domaine. As to drinkability, this could certainly be drunk now but I would advise holding it for at least another 7 to 10 years and for those who enjoy very mature Burgundy, it will last another 50 with no trouble.