In the glass the 1994 from Chateau Musar displays an overtly mature garnet hue with a broad fade out to the rim, which remains fresh but with a honeyed tinge. There follows a beautifully evolved nose rich in the sweet and slightly fungal scents, with layers of black truffle, orange peel, dried cranberry, decaying sage leaves, smouldering cigars and a little chestnut mushroom. Behind all this there is a quite classic twist of volatility, subtle and coherent with the wine. This precedes a rather sweetly polished palate, which is riven with a powdery grip, leading to a confident and sappy finish, around a core of tannin. This has the texture of the richer 1994 vintage even at this age, and it still comes with a wonderfully peppery energy which supports the finish. It has super potential still, even at over 30 years of age; without a doubt this is one of Musar's greatest efforts and I would not shy away from leaving this another decade or two in the cellar. - Chris Kissack