The 1994 Château Pontet-Canet has continued to show well for many years, offering a quality that exceeds expectations based on the overall standard of the vintage. In the glass, at just over thirty years of age, it still...
The 1994 Château Pontet-Canet has continued to show well for many years, offering a quality that exceeds expectations based on the overall standard of the vintage. In the glass, at just over thirty years of age, it still shows a dark hue, with a dusty plum-coloured rim. The nose opens with a blast of evolved hung game and iodine, before passing through an awkward phase reminiscent of old dried wood, but happily it continues to move, finally offering up macerated plum and coffee bean, both rather attractive, with more unusual notes of baked rhubarb, and some greener elements which have always been a feature of this vintage, little touches of celery salt and menthol in the case of this bottle. It hangs together very nicely on the palate though, with a core of savoury dried plum skins, currants and old leather, all set in a dry, slightly bitter and grained texture. There is still some powdery grip at the end, and ultimately this shows nicely for its age. Nevertheless, if you have any tucked away, it is time to get pulling the corks, as I think the best of this vintage is now behind us. - Chris Kissack