The aromatics on this stately 26-year-old wine are just so welcoming. Autumnal leaf, delicate finely-boned tannins, savoury black fruits, feels like you can only be in St Julien, with a caressing if not hugely-persistent structure compared to the 1996. What you get here is a wine with juice, finesse and balance, all extremely moreish if subtle in its charms. Harvest September 15 to October 4. Philippe Carmaigac cellar master, 35% new oak.