From a classic South Australian vintage and cooler for Coonawarra, this 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch has good generosity of fruit with ripe open knit aromas of blackberry, black cherry and cassis. There is also a marked cedary oak edge, although it lacks quite the precision and focus of the best years. A fleshy, attractive texture is then matched by dusty, ground spice nuances with grainy tannins and fresh acid, providing the backbone for a firm finish. This wine is at peak but will hold for a little while longer. -- Angus Hughson