From a year that Guffens describes as "the worst great vintage I ever made," the 1996 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of buttered toast, confit citrus, pear, almond paste and iodine. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's immensely incisive, with considerable mid-palate volume built around a searing spine of acidity, concluding with a long and honeyed finish. - William Kelley

Fantastic supple midpalate mouthfeel but beware--this is a very oaky international-style Chardonnay with loads of butterscotch butter and caramel aromas and flavors. Rated on its incredibly rich ripe fat texture and excellent concentration and length it's clearly a classic white Burgundy; but the overdone oak detracts. The finish tastes oaky leesy and like a pear pie with a dollop of whipped cream. Best after 2005. 125 cases made. –PM