Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. Guffens most stunning Chablis in 1996 is the Chablis Bougros a testimony to the greatness of the vintage and to his brilliant winemaking. It exhibits sublime lemon mineral flower and wet stone aromatics as well as a feminine silky refined classy and medium-to-full-bodied personality. Raspberries currants roses flint and flavors reminiscent of a massive bouquet of freshly cut spring flowers are found in this complex and detailed beauty. Guffens put it best "I decided to throw away the Chardonnay and keep the flowers." I suggest cellaring this gem until 2003 at the earliest and drinking it over the subsequent 12 years.

Showy Chablis. Well made and exotic in a heavily toasted style showing wonderful lemon honey spice and mocha complexity and excellent fresh acidity. Bursts with intense flavors that perk up the palate but doesn't show quite the round smooth finesse of the higher-scoring grands crus. Drink now through 2000. 580 cases made. -PM