Tasted for a Decanter masterclass back in May, this is yet another wine this year that proves 1996 Médocs are totally on their game, and should not be ignored. For me this is one of the all-time best vintages of Cos, combining the gourmet truffle and cocoa bean welcome that this estate is known for with the powerful tannic frame of St Estephe, and ripe but still juicy cassis fruits. So much personality and pleasure on offer here. 65% new oak.

Tasted at the château, the 1996 Cos d'Estournel was aged in 65% new oak (unlike the 1995 which was 100%) and is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot. It has a straight down the line, intense and focused, graphite and melted tar bouquet. It is almost Pauillac in style, no surprise given its proximity. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity, finer tannin than the 1986 Cos d'Estournel tasted alongside, but sharing those same leitmotifs of black pepper and sea salt. I like the nonchalance of this Cos d'Estournel. At 20 years it is not an ostentatious wine, not determined to go out and impress, but its nuance, stylishness and classicism grow on you. Its virtues seem to register only after you swallow the wine and find yourself tempted back for more. Excellent. Tasted July 2016. - Neal Martin