The opaque blue/purple-colored 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa boasts an exceptional nose of creme de cassis minerals and spice. It takes at least a decade for wines such as this to begin to reveal more identity and vintage character. The cassis/blackberry liqueur-like fruit are present as are mouthsearing levels of tannin and impressive extract. This blockbuster should be at its peak between 2010-2040. If Godzilla drank California Cabernet Sauvignon would there be any doubt as to what choice it would be? Anyone who has regularly tasted Randy Dunn's Cabernet Sauvignons (first produced in 1979) realizes several things. They all possess the following characteristics: (1) remarkable color and richness (2) massive personalities with huge tannic structures (3) gorgeous purity and unreal aging potential. Last year I reported on a tasting where all of Dunn's top wines back through the 1982 vintage were served. Remarkably they had hardly budged in development yet they were still exceptionally rich in their pure creme de cassis black raspberry and blackberry fruit notes. These are obviously more than 20-25 year wines. It is not far-fetched to suggest that Randy Dunn is producing Cabernet Sauvignons that in top vintages will be fresh lively and rich in fruit at age 50. Unbelievably Randy Dunn has barely raised his prices in the two decades he has been making wine. For those with patience these are among the finest values in long-lived classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tightly wound with firm crisp tannins wrapped around a core of currant black cherry wild berry cedar anise sage and spice. Finishes with enough tannin to merit short-term cellaring. Best from 2002 through 2010. 2000 cases made. (JL)