Served out of magnum because there are no bottles left at the property. The colour remains fairly intense, just beginning to soften and truffle around the edges. Gorgeous woodsmoke, undergrowth and cold ash, classical and tertiary but still with a touch of austerity to the tannins, suggesting this is in its drinking window but with plenty of time ahead. Owned by the Sanders family at this point, in the last two years before the estate was purchased by Bob Wilmers in 1998.

Tasted at the château, the 1996 Haut Bailly is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. It has an attractive bouquet with blackcurrant pastilles, briary, a touch of gravel and dried orange peel. As I commented a few years ago, this is a 1996 that is not as immediate as others, but seems to find its voice with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a soy-tinged opening. This is well balanced and quite rounded in the mouth, quite masculine and perhaps having dispensed with some of the freshness and vitality that it showed in numerous tastings in the previous decade. There is a noticeable salinity here, lending it a marine-like finish with black olive on the aftertaste: a highly enjoyable Haut-Bailly, perchance one soon to reach the end of its plateau? Whatever -- I like where this is at now. Tasted July 2016.- NM

The 1996 Haut Bailly has an attractive bouquet with blackcurrant pastilles. Briary with a touch of gravel and dried orange peel. It takes time to open and reveal itself. The palate is medium-bodied with a soy-tinged opening. This is well balanced and quite rounded in the mouth, masculine and a little austere having lost some of the vitality it showed previously. Quite saline, it offers black olive on the aftertaste. Overall, an enjoyable Haut-Bailly, albeit one approaching the end of its plateau. -- Neal Martin

The 1996 Haut Bailly is about as classic as they come and shows the more focused, elegant style of this vintage nicely. Cedarwood, lead pencil shavings, tobacco leaf and plenty of earthy dark fruits emerge from this medium-bodied, fresh, balanced, textbook Pessac that’s drinking at point today. It should last for another 15-20 years.