Impressive nose of raspberry, mint, warm stones and tar follow through to full body, with a core of ripe, almost sweet fruit and a fruity finish. Complete wine. And will improve with age. Even better than I remember.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 1,790 cases made. –JS

A stunning wine, as well as one of the sleepers of the vintage, this dense purple-colored 1998 offers up classic Graves aromas of tar, roasted meats, scorched earth, black currants, and barbecue spices. It is beautifully elegant, yet rich, concentrated, and deep, with medium to full body, laudable sweetness on the entry, and ripe tannin in the finish. A bottle kept open for twenty-four hours was significantly better than it was upon opening, suggesting this wine will have terrific longevity. Haut-Brion enthusiasts are advised to check out this beautifully-made offering. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020.