Burly-edged tannins pump through this heavy-weight with roasted chestnut game licorice tar and stewed currant and prune fruit. Steel-plated finish thanks to the tannins but look closely and you'll see a river of acidity pumping through too. Drink now through 2025. -JM

Henri Bonneau released the 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins (one of the finest wines of the vintage) in 2004. Although slightly austere and closed at present it offers a wonderful bouquet of smoked meats ground pepper sweet kirsch currants blood herbs and God knows what else. Rich and medium to full-bodied but tannic and closed it requires 3-4 years of cellaring and should drink well for two decades.