At first taste, it seems quite developed, with notes of forest floor and a bit of chocolate. But then it opens up and shows unexpected aromas of sandalwood, curry and leather, expressing itself on the palate with elegance and restraint. It reminds me of a 1920 Rioja, in the sense that you assumed that it was close to its end, but then it gets better after four days, showing its amazing capacity to develop positively. This is a challenging wine, but lovely. (Drink between 2020-2030)

Serge Hochar's estate red has a sweet, earthy succulence in 2000 that's hard to resist, a combination of raspberry liqueur, mocha, black olives and very rich earth. It's all interwoven with chewy, firm tannins and stony minerality. The structure should hold it for another decade.