Produced, unlikely as it may seem, near the steel-making city of Piombino, San Luigi’s 2000 Fidenzio, a Cabernet Sauvignon, seems to draw forth all of the mineral complexity of the local soil, while its ripe flavors recall the warmth of the Tuscan coast where it is located. Ruby/purple in color, abundantly endowed with aromas of black currants, graphite, gravel, and iron, its broad, plushy, and textured palate and important length testify to the optimal ripeness and concentration of the grapes. Among the admirers of this wine can be numbered Australia’s Chris Ringland, who sampled it at the nearby Gambero Rosso restaurant. He also predicted a long and happy evolution in bottle, a judgment with which I would hardly wish to disagree. Drink: 2005-2020. - Daniel Thomases