There is a slightly curious hint of lactic character that detracts slightly from the overall sense of purity though not so much as to render the almost fully mature aromas of secondary fruit and earth unpleasant. There is good verve and detail to the velvety middle weight flavors that display a lovely bead of minerality on the solidly persistent finish that evidences a subtle but perceptible touch of warmth. As the description suggests, this is a little awkward but not without its appeal. For my taste this is knocking on the door of its full apogee if not quite there yet. Note that I tried several different bottles at the tasting and all of them displayed this lactic character so I can only assume that it's the wine and not these particular examples.