This is a taut and minerally version, with lavender, iron and olive paste notes holding sway over racy cherry and cassis fruit. Floral notes weave through the finish, where a jolt of acidity takes over. Sinewy now, so let this flesh out in the cellar; it'll be a beauty. Best from 2006 through 2014. 750 cases made. — JM

Stolen away from the family's tiny cache of back vintages, the 2001 Cote Rotie la Landonne is a clear marker that even top wines don't live forever. While still charming for its notes of crushed stone, florals and wood ash, the fruit has largely faded. Medium to full-bodied and nicely rounded on the mid-palate, it's thinning out on the tart finish. Drink up. - Joe Czerwinski